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Black Identities: A Historical and Current Review of Representation in the Fashion Industry
(Springer Nature Switzerland, 2025)
Ambás, Gabriela
;
Gargoles, Paula
This article examines the construction of black identities through male fashion, tracing its evolution from the eighteenth century African diaspora to contemporary black designers. The study explores black dandyism, which combined African and European aesthetics, as both a personal and political statement to assert individuality. Employing a literature review methodology, the study is structured into two main sections. The first provides a historical analysis of the origin and evolution of black dandyism and its influence on the identity formation of Afro-descendant communities in the nineteenth and early twentieth century. The second section focuses on the contributions of designers such as Stephen Burrows, Virgil Abloh, Pharell Williams, and Kanye West, whose work integrates Black heritage into global fashion narratives. By contextualizing these contributions, the article highlights the role of fashion as a powerful tool for cultural representation, affirming the transformative influence of black identities on the fashion industry while fostering conversation about self-expression, identity formation, and visibility. This study contributes an academic approach on current discussions leading up to the Met Gala 2025 exhibition “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.” ©The authors ©Springer.
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Fashioning Society: An Exploration of Collective Behaviour and Cultural Change Through Symbolic Interactionism
(Lithuanian Academy of Sciences, 2025)
Ambás, Gabriela
;
Gargoles, Paula
The intersection of fashion, collective behaviour and the philosophical tradition of symbolic interactionism (SI) is explored through this article, highlighting how fashion serves as a key mechanism in social interaction and cultural change. Drawing from the intellectual tradition of SI, developed by Mead and Blumer, this study demonstrates how fashion facilitates collective adaptation and construction of meaning in a cultural landscape that is continually changing. Fashion is analysed not only as a vehicle for individual expression but as a significant social object that embodies symbols, signs and shared meanings. Through social interaction, these meanings are constructed, deconstructed, and continuously reshaped, influencing both personal identities and broader social structures. By analysing fashion’s role in collective selection and its potential for societal transformation, the findings of this article reveal fashion’s capacity to introduce new cultural models, challenge established norms, and guide upcoming social dynamics. These insights highlight how fashion holds a relevant influence in shaping cultural imaginaries, constructing collective meanings, and driving social change. ©The authors ©Filosofija. Sociologija ©Lithuanian Academy of Sciences.
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A practice theory perspective on apparel sharing consumption models exploring new paths of consumption in France and Mexico
(Elsevier, 2024)
Ulrich, Isabelle
;
Cacho-Elizondo, Silvia
;
Damay, Coralie
;
Loussaïef, Leïla
The sharing economy and, more specifically, access-based consumption models are challenging the very nature and purpose of owning consumer goods in a world where consumption is all around us. Previous research on this topic has seldom compared developed and developing countries, nor has it adequately explored access-based models in the fashion market. Building on practice theory, this study investigates the practice of renting clothes in France and Mexico. Our qualitative approach reveals similarities and differences between the two countries. In France alone, a practice of daily clothing rental is revealed, embedded in digital technologies and algorithms. In both countries, the research reveals a practice of occasional rental, with similar meanings - such as smart behavior, variety and testing, or sustainability concern - and similar doings - such as searching on line and trying in store. The observed differences mainly relate to individualistic versus collectivist cultures. In France, social status in a professional environment appears to be important to some consumers, while in Mexico the influence of traditions and celebrations may better account for this access-based consumption practice.
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